The overlock machine, or serger has certainly improved garment construction with its speed and professional finishing ability; but many sewers are in a quandary about how and when to use different serging techniques and stitches.
For best results with stretch fabrics, serge the seams and attach ribbing using a 4-thread mock safety stitch. The extra row of stitching adds the strength that a stretchy seam requires. The 4-thread safety stitch works particularly well with two-way stretch fabrics, such as spandex, and is the perfect seam for bathing suits and leotards.
Control the stretch of knit, loosely woven and bias-cut fabric by reinforcing seams with twill tape, Stay-Tape (a fine sheer tricot), clear plastic, or a serger-tail-chain.
Feed the Stay-Tape through the slot of a standard presser foot on your serger (if it has a slot through which to feed the tape – as do the Baby Lock sergers) while serging the seam.
In this short video you will see Pam Carter, Sewing Center Director at Mary Jo's Cloth Store demonstrate how to serge a seam in knit fabrics with Stay-Tape.
For more serger tips and techniques, join us on April 11-12, 2014 for our Serger Event featuring Baby Lock expert Joan Friedrich. To learn more and to reserve your seat, call 704-861-9100.